Monday 13 March 2017

Panagal Temples

Date: 11-March-2017
 
Panagal Temples

Panagal is located in the Nalgonda district and is the home to a rich architectural heritage. Panagal is a small town and is 100Kms from Hyderabad on the NH 65. It is a 3 hour drive and the roads are in excellent condition making the drive easy and enjoyable. 

Hyderabad to Panagal Map:




Panagal Map:
 


The temple is open from 9 – 7 on all days and according to the locals Sivaratri is a major festival.
The temples at Panagal are dedicated to Lord Siva. The Chaya Someswaralayam, Pachala Someswaralaym are two outstanding examples of Kakatiya architecture.  The third temple dedicated to Siva is said to be submerged under the Udaya Samudram project and localites say that during the dry season it can be reached though maintained badly.


Chaya Someswara Temple

Outside view of the temple
The Chaya Someswara Temple is a visual treat to the eyes. It is off the main road amidst verdant paddy fields and the first glimpse of the temple is stunning and one wonders at the magnificence of the temple. The temple is also referred to as Trikutalayam and is a protected monument as per the archaeological survey of India. The temple was built by the Kundur Cholas between 1040 – 1290 AD. They were the rulers of the region that included Nalgonda, Mahbubnagar and Khammam.


Ramayana carved
The temple has a stepped vimana which is built out of local rock(Pic B). The temple has the profound influence of the Cholas which is evident in the inverted lotus. The Kakatiya architecture is beautifully evident inside and outside the temple. The roof of the temple has the inverted lotus and each of the panels is framed by it. 



Ashtadikhpala on the roof
The Ashtadikhpala panel is exquisitely carved and is a recurring feature in other temples in Panagal. Another feature present in the Panagal temples are the carved pillars depicting the Ramayana, Mahabharata, bejeweled elephants all carved in black stone. The pillars also emit the sound of bells at the top. The Kakatiya architecture is rich with embellishments repetitive but exquisite all around the temple. It is sheer joy to look at elephants with locked trunks and this feature is present all around the temple.  

Mahabharat carved




Shadow of the pillar
One of the reasons that the temple is called Chaya Someswara is the shadow that is cast on the idol of Lord Siva. The shadow is cast on all days and according to temple priest the shadow is cast on all the images in the temple.  This leaves a question is there a shadow in the night?

The temple complex has been damaged in sections and it is rather sad to see that it has been carelessly cemented and painted. The temple priest said that the archaeological department is undertaking repair work to bring out the original stone. A temple tank sits majestically outside the temple and is a run off the Udaya Samudram project.  Children enjoy themselves in this tank and a look from the far end of the tank shows the temple in its splendor.

Elephant Carvings
Koneru in front of the temple
 
A must visit treasure trove ringing with lost history and damaged pillars. One feels a sense of belonging and history when walking around the temple. A sense of loss and a hope that this temple be renovated and brought back to its former glory is the take away thought as one drives away from the temple.


Pachala Someswara Temple



Samudra Manthan craved
Pachala Someswara temple is located in Panagal and is part of the Trikuta Siva temples. The temple gets its name from the idol of Lord Siva which is made of green Onyx stone giving the name pachala. Pachala in Telugu means green and the temple is a jewel of Kakatiya architecture. The Kakatiyas were followers of the Saiva faith and the region is dotted with temples dedicated to their reigning deity. The Pachala temple is a beautiful example of Kakatiya architecture with the use of stone and black stone. Inside the temple the pillars are made of black stone and carved with reliefs such as elephants, beaded columns, scenes from mythology such as the samudra manthan, Dasavataram and Ramayana. The small temple has a mandapa where the Kalyanam of the lord takes place.









As one walks around the temple it is sad to see broken pillars and idols which are in need of repair. The temple is cemented in places and is an eyesore marring the rich beauty of the temple. A broken temple mandapa is seen at the back of the temple which may have been used in times when it was better maintained. Locals say that the temple is well known for its Sivaratri pooja and that many people come from far during the festival.



Panagal Museum


Panagal Museum located behind the Pachala Someswara temple is a treasure trove of artifacts from the Nalgonda region. The small but beautiful museum is filled with history of the glorious past of the Kakatiyas.  The museum is home to several sculptures on Vishnu, Kakatiya Toranams, Viragallu, Sapta Matrika figurines and much more. 
 

The walkway is dedicated to Vishnu and Viragallu and every sculpture is a treat to the eyes. The damaged sculptures bear testimony to the ravages of the Muslim invasion of the region.  The museum is manned by a curator who is happy to share his knowledge of the history of the region and hopes the government will popularise the region with maps and billboards.  The museum is home to a fabulous collection of Kakatiya history and is a must see when visiting Panagal. 


Viragallu - an ode to a warrior

Hero Stones or Viragallu are memorials that commemorate the honorable death of a warrior in

battle. Hero stones are found all over India and the practice began in the 3rd century BC and was evident until the 18th century. Viragallu often carried the image of the warrior brandishing a sword or a javelin. Inscriptions were also written describing the valour of the person in the image. Most times the viragallu are in bas relief or as a frieze and the height of the stone varied from person to place. Viragallu also portrayed honorable death not just in war but also in defending the home and village.

The archaeology department has unearthed a number of hero stones and the Panagal museum has a wonderful collection of Viragallu. The poses struck by the warriors inspire awe when seen and brings back the glory of yester years. Some of them are beautifully maintained while some remain in disrepair.

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