Devarakonda Fort

Devarakonda Fort is a majestic yet desolate fort in Nalgonda District. The fort has a rich legacy and bears testimony to the ravages of time. The fort is 117 kms from Hyderabad and the route is scenic with chilly and paddy fields.


Devarakonda town is small and the locals are friendly and eager to talk of the rich history.


Locals claim that gold was discovered in the fort and that those who took the gold were cursed. It is a heritage site which is today badly in need of visitors who can witness the brilliant structure.


The fort was built by the Velama rulers in the 14^th century who ruled parts of Telangana after the Kakatiyas.  The fortress was under the control of the Velama rulers from 1287 – 1482 and later controlled by the Padma Nayaka rulers who added fortifications.The fort is surrounded by great boulders making it an impregnable fort. Insignia of the Kakatiyas, the Velama and Nayak rulers are found on the walls.

The fort is built over a hilltop and the steps leading to the top are made of roughen stone and thorn trees and anthills are seen all around the area.

The entrance to the fort is huge and is in ruins now. Its beauty shines through the bastions and arches reminiscent of the Kakatiyas architecture. Scattered pillars speak of the destruction to the fort. The steps leading to the fort which rises affords a glimpse of the town. The fort rises in different levels and the entrance ways are carved with images of gods. A notable feature are the huge hinge openings at the first level of the fort.

The granary or treasury or even a magazine house stands at the second level of the fort and is a huge structure which is intact. The ramparts of the fort are walkable if one is interested in exploring the fort. The arches along the fort ramparts are indicative of added defences with some cannon points visible.

A small lake in the fort seems to have provided water supply and the over run from there seems to have dropped to a lower level. Steps are visible to the tank that is now filled with debris.  The fort has a small temple dedicated to Lord Rama and Siva.

A sense of sadness that rich history is not preserved and is left to the ravages of time makes one wonder why this beautiful heritage is not on the protected monuments list. The ASI and the Telangana tourism could help preserve a cultural heritage of the region.

Panagal Temples

Date: 11-March-2017

 

Panagal Temples

Panagal is located in the Nalgonda district and is the home to a rich architectural heritage. Panagal is a small town and is 100Kms from Hyderabad on the NH 65. It is a 3 hour drive and the roads are in excellent condition making the drive easy and enjoyable. 

Hyderabad to Panagal Map:




Panagal Map:
 

The temple is open from 9 – 7 on all days and according to the locals Sivaratri is a major festival.

The temples at Panagal are dedicated to Lord Siva. The Chaya Someswaralayam, Pachala Someswaralaym are two outstanding examples of Kakatiya architecture.  The third temple dedicated to Siva is said to be submerged under the Udaya Samudram project and localites say that during the dry season it can be reached though maintained badly.

Chaya Someswara Temple

Outside view of the temple

The Chaya Someswara Temple is a visual treat to the eyes. It is off the main road amidst verdant paddy fields and the first glimpse of the temple is stunning and one wonders at the magnificence of the temple. The temple is also referred to as Trikutalayam and is a protected monument as per the archaeological survey of India. The temple was built by the Kundur Cholas between 1040 – 1290 AD. They were the rulers of the region that included Nalgonda, Mahbubnagar and Khammam.

Ramayana carved

The temple has a stepped vimana which is built out of local rock(Pic B). The temple has the profound influence of the Cholas which is evident in the inverted lotus. The Kakatiya architecture is beautifully evident inside and outside the temple. The roof of the temple has the inverted lotus and each of the panels is framed by it. 

Ashtadikhpala on the roof

The Ashtadikhpala panel is exquisitely carved and is a recurring feature in other temples in Panagal. Another feature present in the Panagal temples are the carved pillars depicting the Ramayana, Mahabharata, bejeweled elephants all carved in black stone. The pillars also emit the sound of bells at the top. The Kakatiya architecture is rich with embellishments repetitive but exquisite all around the temple. It is sheer joy to look at elephants with locked trunks and this feature is present all around the temple.  

Mahabharat carved

Shadow of the pillar

One of the reasons that the temple is called Chaya Someswara is the shadow that is cast on the idol of Lord Siva. The shadow is cast on all days and according to temple priest the shadow is cast on all the images in the temple.  This leaves a question is there a shadow in the night?

The temple complex has been damaged in sections and it is rather sad to see that it has been carelessly cemented and painted. The temple priest said that the archaeological department is undertaking repair work to bring out the original stone. A temple tank sits majestically outside the temple and is a run off the Udaya Samudram project.  Children enjoy themselves in this tank and a look from the far end of the tank shows the temple in its splendor.

Elephant Carvings

Koneru in front of the temple

 

A must visit treasure trove ringing with lost history and damaged pillars. One feels a sense of belonging and history when walking around the temple. A sense of loss and a hope that this temple be renovated and brought back to its former glory is the take away thought as one drives away from the temple.

Pachala Someswara Temple

Samudra Manthan craved

Pachala Someswara temple is located in Panagal and is part of the Trikuta Siva temples. The temple gets its name from the idol of Lord Siva which is made of green Onyx stone giving the name pachala. Pachala in Telugu means green and the temple is a jewel of Kakatiya architecture. The Kakatiyas were followers of the Saiva faith and the region is dotted with temples dedicated to their reigning deity. The Pachala temple is a beautiful example of Kakatiya architecture with the use of stone and black stone. Inside the temple the pillars are made of black stone and carved with reliefs such as elephants, beaded columns, scenes from mythology such as the samudra manthan, Dasavataram and Ramayana. The small temple has a mandapa where the Kalyanam of the lord takes place.

As one walks around the temple it is sad to see broken pillars and idols which are in need of repair. The temple is cemented in places and is an eyesore marring the rich beauty of the temple. A broken temple mandapa is seen at the back of the temple which may have been used in times when it was better maintained. Locals say that the temple is well known for its Sivaratri pooja and that many people come from far during the festival.

Panagal Museum

Panagal Museum located behind the Pachala Someswara temple is a treasure trove of artifacts from the Nalgonda region. The small but beautiful museum is filled with history of the glorious past of the Kakatiyas.  The museum is home to several sculptures on Vishnu, Kakatiya Toranams, Viragallu, Sapta Matrika figurines and much more. 

The walkway is dedicated to Vishnu and Viragallu and every sculpture is a treat to the eyes. The damaged sculptures bear testimony to the ravages of the Muslim invasion of the region.  The museum is manned by a curator who is happy to share his knowledge of the history of the region and hopes the government will popularise the region with maps and billboards.  The museum is home to a fabulous collection of Kakatiya history and is a must see when visiting Panagal. 

Viragallu - an ode to a warrior

Hero Stones or Viragallu are memorials that commemorate the honorable death of a warrior in

battle. Hero stones are found all over India and the practice began in the 3rd century BC and was evident until the 18th century. Viragallu often carried the image of the warrior brandishing a sword or a javelin. Inscriptions were also written describing the valour of the person in the image. Most times the viragallu are in bas relief or as a frieze and the height of the stone varied from person to place. Viragallu also portrayed honorable death not just in war but also in defending the home and village.

The archaeology department has unearthed a number of hero stones and the Panagal museum has a wonderful collection of Viragallu. The poses struck by the warriors inspire awe when seen and brings back the glory of yester years. Some of them are beautifully maintained while some remain in disrepair.

Shapur Khila

Date: 4th March

Shapur Khila is located on the way to Warangal off the main highway. The fort is small yet beautiful, though it is maintained poorly. The road to the fort goes through a small village and is 5 kms off the main highway. The fort was built by the Kakatiya Dynasty that ruled Warangal region and were famous for temple building, fortifications and the construction of lakes.  Shapur Khila has a watch tower with steps leading to the top and is in ruins now. The fort walls that one can see in Shapur is made of rough stone,baked bricks and clay. Small passages lead to the to of the rampart which is broken down but accessible. The fort is not huge in size and is surrounded by verdant green fields.

A small but big chunk of history is in need of repairs and more visitors who will help the place develop.

Ramappa Temple

The Ramappa temple also called the Ramalingeswara is about 77 kms from Warangal at Palampet. 

The construction of the temple began in 1213 AD during the rule of Ganapati Deva. The temple is said to have been commissioned by Recherla Rudra, the commander of Ganapati Deva but is known by the name of  the sculptor Ramappa.

 

 The temple is built on a star shaped platform and includes the Garbhagriha, the Maha Mandapa and the antarala. The main entrance is in ruins making it necessary to enter the temple through a small gate.  The shikara or the dome of the temple stands majestic and is beautifully carved. 

The walls and the pillars of the temple are intricately carved with scenes from the Siva Purana, Ramayana and dance poses of Lord Siva. Each pillar reflects a story and is made of black onyx stone which emits a musical note.  

All around the temple one can see carvings of fine details of mythical creatures in black stone contrasting with the brick construction.  It is said that the bricks used in the construction are so light that they could float in water.

The Nandi Mandapa opposite the main shrine has a gigantic Nandi, the vehicle of Lord Siva. The Nandi at Ramappa is exquisitely carved and appears to be alert and waiting for the call of the Lord. The delicate carvings on the Nandi represent the finest Kakatiya art.

 

Ramappa temple is under the ASI and the Telangana tourism has cottages close to the temple making it easy to visit the shrine. According to locals the Perini Sivatandavam was inspired by the dance poses engraved in the temple.

 

Take time to visit the Ramappa and soak in the architectural wonder of the Kakatiyas.

Warangal Fort

The Warangal Fort is in Warangal which is located in the state of Telangana. Its 148 Km away from Secunderabad.

 

The Warangal Fort is a protected monument and comes under the list of Monuments of National importance. The fort is in disrepair now but walking around the fort gives a sense of splendour and greatness of the Kakatiya rulers. Warangal also known as Oragallu was the capital of the Kakatiya Kingdom declined after the Muslim invasion during the rule of Pratapa Rudra.

The fort is spread between Hanamkonda and Warangal and is a visual treat to the eyes. The fort was built with a three layer defence which is in ruins now. The construction was begun during the rule of Ganapatideva and completed in 1261 AD by the warrior queen Rudramma Devi.  The fort had four ornamental gateways called the Kakatiya Kala Thoranam and is the official emblem of the Telangana State.  The fort was originally made of brick and was replaced with stone by the Kakatiya rulers.  Ruins of the rectangular bastion also called watch towers offer a splendid view of the city.

One of the most stunning features of the fort is the gateway constructed out of a single rock and having 4 magnificent pillars beautifully carved. The four pillars have motifs of lions, elephants, swans, lotus buds, mythical creatures and beaded motifs which are delicate and a feast to the eyes.  An important feature of the carvings are that they are secular in nature and do not contain any religious symbols, possibly a reason for not being damaged by the Muslim invaders.

The temple within the fort dedicated to Lord Siva is completely destroyed and stone slabs, ceiling panels and brackets are seen all around the fort. Inscriptions in Telugu refer to donations made by the rulers to the temple. Just outside the fort is the Kush Mahal which is rectangular in shape and having arches that reflect the Muslim influence in architecture. There are steps leading to the public hall and is a must visit.  

A visit to Warangal must include the Ramappa and Thousand Pillared temple along with the fort that reflects the resilience of a kingdom that fought to survive against enemies and yet brought to life temples and forts which strongly reflect the cultural heritage of the Kakatiyas.