Nagarjuna Sagar Museum

The Nagarjuna Sagar Museum is located on the way to the dam and houses beautiful sculptures reflecting the architectural beauty of the Ikshvaku dynasty that made Nagarjuna Konda their capital.

It is situated on the border of Nalgonda/Guntur district. It is approximately 153 kms away from Hyderabad and the roads are pretty good to drive.

The Nagarjuna Sagar Museum also has a Helipad.

The Nagarjuna Sagar dam submerged an ancient Buddhist settlement, Nagarjunakonda, which was the capital of the Ikshvaku dynasty in the 1st and 2nd centuries, the successors of the Satavahanas in the Eastern Deccan. The Ikshvakus patronised Hinduism and Buddhism and the famous Acharya Nagarjuna is said to have taught at Nagarjunakonda in its heyday.

The Nagarjuna Sagar museum has replicas of sculpture that highlight Buddhism in the region. As one walks around the museum the walls are rich with images that talk about the birth of Buddha, Maya’s dream, Buddha Paduka, the poorna kumbha or kalash, peepal tree and mithuna couples.  It is a visual treat to walk around and absorb the intricate details that adorn the images.

A replica of the Amaravati Stupa based on the original Amararama stupa is being built in Nagarjuna Sagar. The Amararama was considered to be the biggest stupa in the South. The stupa has a Vedika or drum on the dome.  The walls of the stupa are carved with scenes from Buddha’s life and the sculptural panels depict Theravada Buddhism which was promoted by the rulers. The circumambulatory passage has scenes from the Jataka tales, the Bodhi tree, and the paduka of Buddha. The Buddha Charita Vanam houses images of Buddha, the peepal tree and one can walk around reading about Buddhism in this region.

The museum is closed on Friday. A visit to this museum brings to light the lost glory of the Ikshvakus and their secular faith in the 1st and 2nd centuries. As we drove towards the dam we could not help but wonder how much of history is submerged under the waters and raises the question of what happened to the relics lost during the construction of the dam. No doubt the region benefits from the waters released for harvest, but a sense of sadness envelops when remembering a legacy that is now under water.

Raghunadha Temple and Jail - Nizamabad

The Raghunadha temple is located in the heart of Nizamabad 170kms away from Secunderabad.

The Raghunadha temple is located in what was once a jail that is now abandoned and left in disrepair. The temple within the jail premises houses the idols of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Seeta and is made of white marble.  


The entrance to the Raghunadha temple is majestic and a board here mentions that the temple was by Samarta Ramdas and that Sivaji, the Marata ruler worshipped here. According to locals who we spoke to this temple connects to the Dichpally Ramalayam through a tunnel that is now not seen or closed.

A motor able road leads to the temple steps, where once can park and make a short climb to the temple. The temple has high domes in a diamond shape and is whitewashed. Huge Neem trees offer shade to the pilgrims who can soak in the peaceful atmosphere. All around the temple are huge walls that remind the visitor that this was once a jail. 



The jail is now closed to visitors but as one walks around the temple you can see the cells that were once occupied by the inmates. The jail warden’s house sits in the middle of a quadrangle making it easy for keeping a watch.

The jail faces a temple tank which is now dry but locals claim that it fills with water during the monsoon season.  The jail housed both men and women and the women’s barracks are separated through a wall. A short climb on rickety steps takes one to a watchtower which may have housed a huge bell which is now badly defaced. A climb to the top gives a bird’s eye view of the town.

A small sivalinga can be seen on the floor of the women’s quarters. A spiral staircase from the roof leads to the grounds of the jail and is now rickety and in bad disrepair.

The thought that comes to mind is that this jail along with the temple can be made tourist friendly where people can see first-hand the jail and its cells. Nizamabad could do with more tourism bringing in revenue which can be used for the upkeep of the jail.



Locals were happy to tell us that the temple was famous in the region and that Rama Navami was a big festival that drew crowds on the auspicious occasion. A visit to Nizamabad would be incomplete without a visit to the Ragunadha temple and the blessings of the Lord.

Khilla Ramalayam - Dichpally

          The Dichpally Ramalayam is located in the Nizamabad District and is dedicated to Lord Rama. The road to Nizamabad is a 4 lane drive making the 174 kms of journey pleasant.  

As one walks toward the temple a huge gateway or Torana greets visitors. The torana is representative of the Kakaitya architecture with its intricate carvings of mythical creatures, inverted lotuses and a giant yazhi in the center of the archway. 
















The archway like much of the temple is carved in black basalt. The temple is situated on a small hillock and there are steps to reach the temple which towers majestically.  A board at the entrance mentions that this is a protected monument.

The temple is said to have been built in the 14th century by the Kakatiya rulers and is also called the Indur Khajuraho because of the similarity in the carvings found at the temple. As you walk up the steps fortification is visible making one wonder if this is the reason for the temple to be called Khilla Ramalayam.

The temple is constructed out of white and black basalt and is beautifully carved. Every surface of the temple is carved with intricate sculptures of dancing women, mythical creatures, and goddesses. One can see erotic sculptures all around the temple bringing the realisation that the temporal world exists along with the spiritual.








The temple faces a large water body with a small mandapa in the middle. We were told that the temple tank fills with water after the monsoon. 

A thought that struck us was that the mandapa was in a state of disrepair and could do with maintenance. The temple is well maintained and Rama Navami is the most important festival that attracts visitors from neighbouring villages and towns. 

The idol in the temple was not installed until 1940 making one wonder why the temple was left incomplete.  According to locals the temple is connected through a tunnel to the Raghunadha Temple located in Nizamabad in what was once the jail which now houses the idol of Lord Rama and Seeta.

Take time to visit the majestic temple atop the hillock. What gets the attention is that the temple premises are well maintained and there are two watch towers where one can climb to get a view of the adjoining areas.  






The temple closes around mid-day and opens again at 4 in the evening. Time your visit to have a darshan of the Lord while soaking in the vibrant architecture of the temple. A treasure in Nizamabad is waiting for more footfalls of visitors who can admire the cultural heritage of a bygone era.

Devarakonda Fort

Devarakonda Fort is a majestic yet desolate fort in Nalgonda District. The fort has a rich legacy and bears testimony to the ravages of time. The fort is 117 kms from Hyderabad and the route is scenic with chilly and paddy fields.


Devarakonda town is small and the locals are friendly and eager to talk of the rich history.


Locals claim that gold was discovered in the fort and that those who took the gold were cursed. It is a heritage site which is today badly in need of visitors who can witness the brilliant structure.


The fort was built by the Velama rulers in the 14^th century who ruled parts of Telangana after the Kakatiyas.  The fortress was under the control of the Velama rulers from 1287 – 1482 and later controlled by the Padma Nayaka rulers who added fortifications.The fort is surrounded by great boulders making it an impregnable fort. Insignia of the Kakatiyas, the Velama and Nayak rulers are found on the walls.

The fort is built over a hilltop and the steps leading to the top are made of roughen stone and thorn trees and anthills are seen all around the area.

The entrance to the fort is huge and is in ruins now. Its beauty shines through the bastions and arches reminiscent of the Kakatiyas architecture. Scattered pillars speak of the destruction to the fort. The steps leading to the fort which rises affords a glimpse of the town. The fort rises in different levels and the entrance ways are carved with images of gods. A notable feature are the huge hinge openings at the first level of the fort.

The granary or treasury or even a magazine house stands at the second level of the fort and is a huge structure which is intact. The ramparts of the fort are walkable if one is interested in exploring the fort. The arches along the fort ramparts are indicative of added defences with some cannon points visible.

A small lake in the fort seems to have provided water supply and the over run from there seems to have dropped to a lower level. Steps are visible to the tank that is now filled with debris.  The fort has a small temple dedicated to Lord Rama and Siva.

A sense of sadness that rich history is not preserved and is left to the ravages of time makes one wonder why this beautiful heritage is not on the protected monuments list. The ASI and the Telangana tourism could help preserve a cultural heritage of the region.

Panagal Temples

Date: 11-March-2017

 

Panagal Temples

Panagal is located in the Nalgonda district and is the home to a rich architectural heritage. Panagal is a small town and is 100Kms from Hyderabad on the NH 65. It is a 3 hour drive and the roads are in excellent condition making the drive easy and enjoyable. 

Hyderabad to Panagal Map:




Panagal Map:
 

The temple is open from 9 – 7 on all days and according to the locals Sivaratri is a major festival.

The temples at Panagal are dedicated to Lord Siva. The Chaya Someswaralayam, Pachala Someswaralaym are two outstanding examples of Kakatiya architecture.  The third temple dedicated to Siva is said to be submerged under the Udaya Samudram project and localites say that during the dry season it can be reached though maintained badly.

Chaya Someswara Temple

Outside view of the temple

The Chaya Someswara Temple is a visual treat to the eyes. It is off the main road amidst verdant paddy fields and the first glimpse of the temple is stunning and one wonders at the magnificence of the temple. The temple is also referred to as Trikutalayam and is a protected monument as per the archaeological survey of India. The temple was built by the Kundur Cholas between 1040 – 1290 AD. They were the rulers of the region that included Nalgonda, Mahbubnagar and Khammam.

Ramayana carved

The temple has a stepped vimana which is built out of local rock(Pic B). The temple has the profound influence of the Cholas which is evident in the inverted lotus. The Kakatiya architecture is beautifully evident inside and outside the temple. The roof of the temple has the inverted lotus and each of the panels is framed by it. 

Ashtadikhpala on the roof

The Ashtadikhpala panel is exquisitely carved and is a recurring feature in other temples in Panagal. Another feature present in the Panagal temples are the carved pillars depicting the Ramayana, Mahabharata, bejeweled elephants all carved in black stone. The pillars also emit the sound of bells at the top. The Kakatiya architecture is rich with embellishments repetitive but exquisite all around the temple. It is sheer joy to look at elephants with locked trunks and this feature is present all around the temple.  

Mahabharat carved

Shadow of the pillar

One of the reasons that the temple is called Chaya Someswara is the shadow that is cast on the idol of Lord Siva. The shadow is cast on all days and according to temple priest the shadow is cast on all the images in the temple.  This leaves a question is there a shadow in the night?

The temple complex has been damaged in sections and it is rather sad to see that it has been carelessly cemented and painted. The temple priest said that the archaeological department is undertaking repair work to bring out the original stone. A temple tank sits majestically outside the temple and is a run off the Udaya Samudram project.  Children enjoy themselves in this tank and a look from the far end of the tank shows the temple in its splendor.

Elephant Carvings

Koneru in front of the temple

 

A must visit treasure trove ringing with lost history and damaged pillars. One feels a sense of belonging and history when walking around the temple. A sense of loss and a hope that this temple be renovated and brought back to its former glory is the take away thought as one drives away from the temple.

Pachala Someswara Temple

Samudra Manthan craved

Pachala Someswara temple is located in Panagal and is part of the Trikuta Siva temples. The temple gets its name from the idol of Lord Siva which is made of green Onyx stone giving the name pachala. Pachala in Telugu means green and the temple is a jewel of Kakatiya architecture. The Kakatiyas were followers of the Saiva faith and the region is dotted with temples dedicated to their reigning deity. The Pachala temple is a beautiful example of Kakatiya architecture with the use of stone and black stone. Inside the temple the pillars are made of black stone and carved with reliefs such as elephants, beaded columns, scenes from mythology such as the samudra manthan, Dasavataram and Ramayana. The small temple has a mandapa where the Kalyanam of the lord takes place.

As one walks around the temple it is sad to see broken pillars and idols which are in need of repair. The temple is cemented in places and is an eyesore marring the rich beauty of the temple. A broken temple mandapa is seen at the back of the temple which may have been used in times when it was better maintained. Locals say that the temple is well known for its Sivaratri pooja and that many people come from far during the festival.

Panagal Museum

Panagal Museum located behind the Pachala Someswara temple is a treasure trove of artifacts from the Nalgonda region. The small but beautiful museum is filled with history of the glorious past of the Kakatiyas.  The museum is home to several sculptures on Vishnu, Kakatiya Toranams, Viragallu, Sapta Matrika figurines and much more. 

The walkway is dedicated to Vishnu and Viragallu and every sculpture is a treat to the eyes. The damaged sculptures bear testimony to the ravages of the Muslim invasion of the region.  The museum is manned by a curator who is happy to share his knowledge of the history of the region and hopes the government will popularise the region with maps and billboards.  The museum is home to a fabulous collection of Kakatiya history and is a must see when visiting Panagal. 

Viragallu - an ode to a warrior

Hero Stones or Viragallu are memorials that commemorate the honorable death of a warrior in

battle. Hero stones are found all over India and the practice began in the 3rd century BC and was evident until the 18th century. Viragallu often carried the image of the warrior brandishing a sword or a javelin. Inscriptions were also written describing the valour of the person in the image. Most times the viragallu are in bas relief or as a frieze and the height of the stone varied from person to place. Viragallu also portrayed honorable death not just in war but also in defending the home and village.

The archaeology department has unearthed a number of hero stones and the Panagal museum has a wonderful collection of Viragallu. The poses struck by the warriors inspire awe when seen and brings back the glory of yester years. Some of them are beautifully maintained while some remain in disrepair.