Monday 10 April 2017

Nagarjuna Sagar Museum

The Nagarjuna Sagar Museum is located on the way to the dam and houses beautiful sculptures reflecting the architectural beauty of the Ikshvaku dynasty that made Nagarjuna Konda their capital.


It is situated on the border of Nalgonda/Guntur district. It is approximately 153 kms away from Hyderabad and the roads are pretty good to drive.




The Nagarjuna Sagar Museum also has a Helipad.





The Nagarjuna Sagar dam submerged an ancient Buddhist settlement, Nagarjunakonda, which was the capital of the Ikshvaku dynasty in the 1st and 2nd centuries, the successors of the Satavahanas in the Eastern Deccan. The Ikshvakus patronised Hinduism and Buddhism and the famous Acharya Nagarjuna is said to have taught at Nagarjunakonda in its heyday.



The Nagarjuna Sagar museum has replicas of sculpture that highlight Buddhism in the region. As one walks around the museum the walls are rich with images that talk about the birth of Buddha, Maya’s dream, Buddha Paduka, the poorna kumbha or kalash, peepal tree and mithuna couples.  It is a visual treat to walk around and absorb the intricate details that adorn the images.







A replica of the Amaravati Stupa based on the original Amararama stupa is being built in Nagarjuna Sagar. The Amararama was considered to be the biggest stupa in the South. The stupa has a Vedika or drum on the dome.  The walls of the stupa are carved with scenes from Buddha’s life and the sculptural panels depict Theravada Buddhism which was promoted by the rulers. The circumambulatory passage has scenes from the Jataka tales, the Bodhi tree, and the paduka of Buddha. The Buddha Charita Vanam houses images of Buddha, the peepal tree and one can walk around reading about Buddhism in this region.



The museum is closed on Friday. A visit to this museum brings to light the lost glory of the Ikshvakus and their secular faith in the 1st and 2nd centuries. As we drove towards the dam we could not help but wonder how much of history is submerged under the waters and raises the question of what happened to the relics lost during the construction of the dam. No doubt the region benefits from the waters released for harvest, but a sense of sadness envelops when remembering a legacy that is now under water.

Friday 7 April 2017

Raghunadha Temple and Jail - Nizamabad



The Raghunadha temple is located in the heart of Nizamabad 170kms away from Secunderabad.




The Raghunadha temple is located in what was once a jail that is now abandoned and left in disrepair. The temple within the jail premises houses the idols of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Seeta and is made of white marble.  


The entrance to the Raghunadha temple is majestic and a board here mentions that the temple was by Samarta Ramdas and that Sivaji, the Marata ruler worshipped here. According to locals who we spoke to this temple connects to the Dichpally Ramalayam through a tunnel that is now not seen or closed.

A motor able road leads to the temple steps, where once can park and make a short climb to the temple. The temple has high domes in a diamond shape and is whitewashed. Huge Neem trees offer shade to the pilgrims who can soak in the peaceful atmosphere. All around the temple are huge walls that remind the visitor that this was once a jail. 



The jail is now closed to visitors but as one walks around the temple you can see the cells that were once occupied by the inmates. The jail warden’s house sits in the middle of a quadrangle making it easy for keeping a watch.







The jail faces a temple tank which is now dry but locals claim that it fills with water during the monsoon season.  The jail housed both men and women and the women’s barracks are separated through a wall. A short climb on rickety steps takes one to a watchtower which may have housed a huge bell which is now badly defaced. A climb to the top gives a bird’s eye view of the town.



A small sivalinga can be seen on the floor of the women’s quarters. A spiral staircase from the roof leads to the grounds of the jail and is now rickety and in bad disrepair.


The thought that comes to mind is that this jail along with the temple can be made tourist friendly where people can see first-hand the jail and its cells. Nizamabad could do with more tourism bringing in revenue which can be used for the upkeep of the jail.



Locals were happy to tell us that the temple was famous in the region and that Rama Navami was a big festival that drew crowds on the auspicious occasion. A visit to Nizamabad would be incomplete without a visit to the Ragunadha temple and the blessings of the Lord.

Khilla Ramalayam - Dichpally



          The Dichpally Ramalayam is located in the Nizamabad District and is dedicated to Lord Rama. The road to Nizamabad is a 4 lane drive making the 174 kms of journey pleasant.  





As one walks toward the temple a huge gateway or Torana greets visitors. The torana is representative of the Kakaitya architecture with its intricate carvings of mythical creatures, inverted lotuses and a giant yazhi in the center of the archway. 
















The archway like much of the temple is carved in black basalt. The temple is situated on a small hillock and there are steps to reach the temple which towers majestically.  A board at the entrance mentions that this is a protected monument.




The temple is said to have been built in the 14th century by the Kakatiya rulers and is also called the Indur Khajuraho because of the similarity in the carvings found at the temple. As you walk up the steps fortification is visible making one wonder if this is the reason for the temple to be called Khilla Ramalayam.













The temple is constructed out of white and black basalt and is beautifully carved. Every surface of the temple is carved with intricate sculptures of dancing women, mythical creatures, and goddesses. One can see erotic sculptures all around the temple bringing the realisation that the temporal world exists along with the spiritual.








The temple faces a large water body with a small mandapa in the middle. We were told that the temple tank fills with water after the monsoon. 


A thought that struck us was that the mandapa was in a state of disrepair and could do with maintenance. The temple is well maintained and Rama Navami is the most important festival that attracts visitors from neighbouring villages and towns. 




The idol in the temple was not installed until 1940 making one wonder why the temple was left incomplete.  According to locals the temple is connected through a tunnel to the Raghunadha Temple located in Nizamabad in what was once the jail which now houses the idol of Lord Rama and Seeta.


Take time to visit the majestic temple atop the hillock. What gets the attention is that the temple premises are well maintained and there are two watch towers where one can climb to get a view of the adjoining areas.  






The temple closes around mid-day and opens again at 4 in the evening. Time your visit to have a darshan of the Lord while soaking in the vibrant architecture of the temple. A treasure in Nizamabad is waiting for more footfalls of visitors who can admire the cultural heritage of a bygone era.